Fine Art Prints - Calibration by Alain Zarinelli

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I use a Colormunki Pro calibration tool ([ http://amzn.to/2rFLMao ]) to recalibrate my main monitor and the Cintiq every time before I print stuff (target 65 cd/m2 for Fine Art Printing), and then have to recalibrate afterward for "normal use" (target 120-130 cd/m2), which is also the calibration I use to post-process social media photos.

Prints are viewed in reflected-light. Therefore, when post-processing, the backlit monitor needs to be matched as closely as possible when it comes to black point, whitepoint, color space, and color relationship. When printing, colors that are 'out of gamut,' i.e. that can be reproduced by a properly calibrated screen, but cannot be accurately matched by the ink-mixture within the printer, must be handled, and - photographic prints being viewed in reflected light - the light quality (daylight, tungsten, fluorescent, etc...) has to be accounted for. This is why a photo post-processed for print looks very different (on a monitor) than one post-processed for social media/computer use...

In my workflow, when I post-process for print, I create a photo in my raw converter (Lightroom Classic), which is then raw-converted ("developed") into a 16-bit, 360 ppi, Photoshop format (PSD) file and 'loaded' into Photoshop. Here, I use layers to achieve the artistic look I want and create a photo that will look good when printed (hence the different monitor calibration.) When satisfied, I save the file, with all layers intact as a PSD file in my "Master PSD" folder.

I then 'flatten' the image for faster further processing, and crop it to the exact size I want to print (13x19, 17x22, ...), set the photoshop proofing profile to the paper I want to use and tweak the contrast, color balance, etc. in new layers. Finally, I will 'output' sharpen the photograph for inkjet printing at the size I plan to, and then save this file in my "Print Ready" folder - with the dimensions and paper type etc. appended to the filename. I then close Photoshop.

Next step is to start my RIP (raster imaging program) 'ImagePrint,' and load the print-ready photo. After aligning it correctly on the paper, etc. I pick the correct paper profile and resolution, and finally choose the quality of light the photograph will be displayed in - usually 'daylight,' but, based upon client needs, sometimes "tungsten' or 'fluorescent' instead...

Then it's sent to the printer.

For social media stuff, I used to recalibrate the monitor from scratch, but I have found it easier to use the same approx. 65 cd/m2 calibration, and just increase the monitor brightness to approx. 120 cd/m2. I use the OS-level controls for this, and then check with my light meter to make sure the monitor is in the correct range.

Lightroom CC on iPad Pro (An Update) by Alain Zarinelli

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Good news.

Watched a YouTube video by Brian Matiash today (https://youtu.be/OSp5bWYfjUQ), which showed ‘hidden features’ in LR CC. This provided a solution to my visualization of the masking in the sharpening module etc.

In addition to visualizing the sharpening, he also showed how to visualize the effect of the ‘Highlights/Shadows’ sliders! Watch the video - it’s very helpful!

What is Fine Art? by Alain Zarinelli

Historically called the visual arts, Fine Art is made by artists, exhibited in art galleries and museums, and purchased by art-lovers with deep pockets at auctions at major art houses like Sotheby's and Christie's. Fine art takes many formats including paintings, sculptures, drawings, prints and lithographs, photography and installation art. Starting in the 20th century, due to electronic advances, fine art came to include sound art and digital and video art and is considered to be ephemeral and conceptual in nature.

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